Finally, a column dedicated to vegetarian cooking has been introduced in the San Francisco Chronicle. Not to belabor the point, but I am especially pleased by this addition to the Food section as I’ve oft longed for writers to focus solely on the vegetarian entree.
However, I am not particularly fond of the column’s title — “The Accidental Vegetarian” — nor am I charmed by the statement that the writer “loves meat but believes that when done well, vegetarian dishes can be just as exciting and interesting.” This new endeavor, I fear, is geared toward the reluctant vegetable-eater rather than toward those who have already pursued their vegetal passions with lusty abandon. Rather than enticing hard-core meat eaters with luscious — and unapologetic — descriptions of meals loaded with fresh, local produce, I worry that once again we will be reading a plea for how to learn to love the vegetable.
Still, this paragraph gives me hope:
“I’ve culled ideas from those years, and the recipes in this column will reflect the seasons, Bay Area produce and a penchant for whole grains and natural foods. I’ll delve into beans under pressure, fancy dinner party fare, raw food for hot summer days and even follow a vegan diet for a month. I’ll watch for trends, scour restaurant menus and keep up the dialogue with chefs and farmers.”
Vegan recipes in a major newspaper? That will be something indeed — but it is the Bay Area, after all.
“When tofu flies, you don’t get mad when it doesn’t stay up long”
(modified from the original “a pig flies” for the tender eyes of vegan/vegetarians)